For those who want to consume more consciously, a good place to turn might just be your jewellery box. The production of jewellery has long been associated with exploitation, pollution, and even war, so if you're trying to minimise harm with your purchasing power, making sure your next pair of everyday earrings, special bracelet or sentimental ring is ethical is an important step.

But what exactly is 'ethical jewellery'? It's a term that is often used alongside other related words, making it difficult to know exactly what you're looking at and which brands actually align with your values. We've broken down the basics so that you can shop from an informed perspective.

What is ethical jewellery?

Ethical jewellery is jewellery which has been produced in a way which is responsible, traceable, and which upholds moral principles for the people and communities involved along the way. 

Brands producing ethical jewellery should do so with minimal impact, using responsibly sourced materials and fair practices that avoid any form of harm for the workers who are part of the process.

Ethical jewellery is linked to (but is not necessarily always synonymous with) sustainable jewellery.

What makes jewellery ethical?

It is the focus on responsible practices, traceability and the minimising of harm to people and environment that makes jewellery ethical.

These standards should be kept throughout the entirety of the supply chain and production process. This focus is the element that makes a given piece of jewellery ethical, rather than any specific one material, certification or supplier. However, there are of course materials that are naturally more ethical choices, such as those that are recycled.

Traceability is also key; the origins of the components used to make the jewellery, such as gemstones and metals, should be able to be traced along the supply chain. Traditionally, labour and exploitation problems (including human rights violations) are part of the jewellery industry, so without knowing where these components originated and how they were made or sourced, there is no guarantee that a given piece of jewellery is ethical.

 

 

Why is it important for jewellery to be made ethically?

Despite it not being something that is widely considered when buying a pair of earrings, a necklace or even an engagement ring, ethical concerns are a huge issue in the jewellery industry.

The methods used in mining and sourcing of precious metals and gemstones that make up many of the jewellery market’s favourite products can have a devastating impact, not only on the people who are involved in the process, but the environments too. Poor treatment of workers and dubious employment conditions are rife, and it’s not unusual for people to be exploited or endangered by their work.

Stopping this harm is why ethical jewellery is important. As a purchase, jewellery is often used to signify meaning. This is something that we love about it and something that gives it personal value - but this shouldn't come at the expense of the people who made it. Buying jewellery that is ethically made shows that you care for people and the planet, and value making a difference just as much as you value the things you wear.

How do you know if jewellery is ethical?

If you are a shopper who is not involved in the industry, it can be difficult to identify with certainty whether the piece of jewellery you are looking to buy is ethical. The term is not closely regulated and this has resulted in some brands using the word 'ethical' in a misleading way, or featuring terms like 'green' in their marketing without being able to evidence the necessary standards all the way through the supply chain. Unfortunately, this has resulted in a jewellery market where use of the word alone is not a guarantee that the pieces are actually ethical.

There are several markers that can demonstrate that a jewellery business takes ethical practices seriously, but no widely-used all-encompassing certification. A couple of examples are:

• Fairtrade Gold is an independent ethical certification system for gold and denotes that small-scale miners receive fair pay and good conditions to work in, as well as supporting their communities

• Responsible Jewellery Council is a standards authority within the jewellery industry that sets standards for sustainability within the supply chain. Members of this authority have demonstrated that they comply with the council’s standards

It is also possible for a jewellery brand to be ethical without any of these certifications or memberships.

One thing that it is always worth looking out for is transparency about the way the business operates, and the presence of published sustainability reports and policies. For example, you can read about the Wild Fawn environmental and social responsibility policy on our website.

It's also worth asking questions directly to a brand you are considering buying from. They should be able to clearly describe the sources of the materials that are used and those who are involved in bringing the piece to life. At Wild Fawn, we welcome questions from potential customers on the origins of our jewellery - it’s good to know that our customers care about these issues as much as we do!

What is ethical jewellery made of?

Depending on the type of jewellery being made, ethical jewellery can be made of several different components. Some examples of these are:

• Recycled or responsibly-sourced metals

• Lab grown or ethical diamonds (although despite terms like ‘conflict-free’ and initiatives such as the Kimberley Process, it is extremely difficult to ever be sure that a mined diamond is 100% ethically sourced - which is why we only use lab grown)

• Gemstones which have been sourced in a way that is responsible and traceable

• Other materials which have been recycled, responsibly sourced, or produced fairly

The use of these materials to create the jewellery, including the cutting and processing of gem stones, should all be done in controlled environments where employment law and safe equipment is standard.

Which metal is the most ethical?

There are conflicting opinions on which metal is most ethical to use in jewellery making, and often this will depend on which element of ethical sourcing that you find most important.

For example, some prefer to prioritise metals that are already in circulation and therefore choose to buy only recycled. Others may prefer to prioritise supporting the communities involved in mining and therefore choose metals from small and artisanal mines that are more likely to be traceable. 

At Wild Fawn, we have chosen to use recycled silver, gold and platinum for all of our jewellery, because the mining of precious metals is extremely energy intensive and causes huge amounts of pollution.

 

 

Are ethical jewellery and sustainable jewellery the same thing?

Ethical jewellery and sustainable jewellery, while they are sometimes used interchangeably, are also sometimes used to mean different things.

Ethical jewellery is most often used when the focus has been on the processes, supply chain, and people involved in the production.

Sustainable jewellery is most often used to refer to the effects of the production of jewellery on the environment.

However, we believe that these terms should go hand in hand, which is why we use both terms to encapsulate what we do. Our jewellery is handmade in London by UK staff who are paid and treated fairly, without exploiting labour in the developing world, using recycled metals and ethical gemstones. We have control over the entire process, which allows us to uphold ethical and sustainable standards at every stage.

Given that the two terms are sometimes defined slightly differently, it is theoretically possible for jewellery to be one or both, although not necessarily morally 'right' for this to be the case. Considering sustainability and ethics to be entirely separate issues does not allow for a thorough understanding of the link between people and planet.

Is ethical jewellery more expensive?

Ethical jewellery doesn’t necessarily come with a higher price tag; there are non-ethical jewellery brands across a wide range of price points, including plenty of luxury retailers with higher prices than many ethical brands. 

However, there are also plenty of examples where a piece that is exactly like-for-like in terms of quality and materials may cost more if it has been produced ethically. This is a direct reflection of the increased cost of producing ethical jewellery.

The responsibly sourced materials and the assurance that no one was harmed in their sourcing, as well as the process and craftsmanship involved is likely to cost more for the brand. Often ethical jewellery brands involve small scale production or are even made to order, which is a more costly way of operating than mass production.

Additionally, since everyone employed by the businesses involved in the supply chain will be paid a living wage or above, the staff costs tend to be higher. 

While we all like to save money where we can, we feel this is a perfectly fair thing to want for the talented people involved in jewellery making!

Are ethical diamonds more expensive?

Ethical gemstones do tend to be more expensive, on account of everyone in the supply chain being fairly paid and treated, as well as the longer, more sustainable process that it takes to source them.

It is no different for diamonds; ethical diamonds that have been mined will generally be more expensive than non-ethical. However, it is incredibly difficult to be 100% certain that any mined diamond is truly ethical, due to conflict diamonds or diamonds that have not been sourced in line with safe working conditions, fair pay and other ethical practices finding their way into the supply chain. For this reason, we do not use mined diamonds.

Lab grown diamonds are a fantastic ethical alternative, and tend to be more affordable than their mined counterparts, making them an excellent option for diamond jewellery.

 

 

Where can you buy ethical jewellery from?

As shoppers have become more aware of the ethical issues in the jewellery industry, new ethical jewellery brands with a focus on this area have appeared (and we’re proud to be one of them!). That’s not to say that all jewellery brands using this term are as they seem though, as some companies will look to make themselves appear to be more responsible than they actually are.

In general, high street jewellers will not be ethical, since unless the materials that they use have specifically been ethically sourced, there is no guarantee that unethical practices have not taken place. It is best to avoid costume jewellery from other high street brands, too, as this is simply fast fashion in jewellery form.

You are more likely to find your next favourite ethical jewellery brand through careful research online, or by seeking out small UK-based businesses who have a high level of control over everything they do.

We are proud to make our jewellery in England, ensuring that our team is valued, safe and fairly paid. Our Goldsmiths, Rachel and Jenn, make our pieces by hand in our South East London studio, either in small batches or individually to order.

If you’re looking to buy ethical jewellery, handmade by mindful women using recycled metals and responsibly sourced gemstones, browse our range of ethical earrings, necklaces and rings today.