Solid gold has been a popular choice for jewellery for thousands of years, and is still beloved all over the world today.
One of the reasons that it has endured - aside from being beautiful and highly prized - is that it is very durable and wears well over time. Today we're taking a look at whether solid gold jewellery will tarnish, fade, rust or wear, but in order to do so it's important to understand purity levels, otherwise known as carats.
How gold purity impacts the way it wears
Pure solid gold (24 carat), while beautiful, has weaknesses as well as strengths. On one hand, it is extremely resistant to corrosion and tarnishing; on the other, it is a very soft metal - so soft that it is impractical for almost all general uses.
The majority of solid gold items, therefore, are not made from 'pure' solid gold. Instead, jewellers alloy gold with other metals in order to improve its strength and hardness while retaining the beauty and lustre. This allows them to create a fade and tarnish resistant product that wears well.
If you're shopping for solid gold jewellery, don't feel that you should be looking for something 'pure' - the other metals are there to make your it strong and hardwearing, a necessary consideration for something you want to take through life with you!
Different mixes of gold and other metals are categorised according to the proportional split, and this is measured in carats. For example, 18ct gold means that the piece is 18 parts gold to 6 parts other metal (often copper or silver). In the UK, solid gold pieces must be over 37.5% pure gold, or 9 carats. With normal care, something like a 9ct gold ring will last a lifetime.
This is why we choose solid gold each and every time, and do not produce plated jewellery. Compared to brands that sell primarily gold plated pieces, we know that our jewellery will stand the test of time in your jewellery box, rather than becoming tarnished or unwearable.
Through the years, how can you expect your solid gold pieces to wear? Let's take a look.
Does solid gold fade?
No, solid gold will not fade or lose its shiny yellow colouring, whether through age or environment (some metals can fade when exposed to sunlight, for example, but gold has no reaction). When you buy a jewellery piece made from solid gold, it will stay beautifully bright for years to come.
Usually if an item of gold jewellery is fading, it is because it is gold plated rather than solid gold. If your jewellery is gold plated, whether it is with 9ct, 18ct or another level of purity, it can appear faded due to the plating wearing down and exposing some of the base metal beneath it. Over time, this can leave you with an item that looks entirely different from the bright, shiny piece you first received.
By contrast, neither solid 9ct nor 18ct gold will fade away; the metal is consistent throughout and this makes it incredibly resistant to any kind of fading.
Occasionally, you might find that a solid gold jewellery piece can start to look a little duller than usual, but a quick polish with a jewellery polishing cloth will restore the shine easily, as this is simply surface build up. Likewise, if your gold jewellery piece finds itself smeared with product (lotions or sun creams, for example) then a simple clean will get it gleaming again.
Does solid gold tarnish?
Tarnishing is a type of corrosion that creates a film of oxidised metal over the top of the item. This happens due to a chemical reaction (oxidation) between the metal and the air, and can leave jewellery looking unsightly.
Pure solid gold (24 carat) does not tarnish because it is a noble metal. Noble metals are those which have extremely high resistance to oxidation and corrosion. Because pure solid gold does not react to the air, the chemical reaction that leads to tarnishing never occurs.
Solid gold jewellery items that are alloyed with other metals to strengthen them are highly tarnish-resistant, although it is not impossible for them to tarnish over time. A lower carat is slightly more likely to tarnish than a higher one, because it is the alloying metal which oxidises, rather than the gold.
That said, in the wider context of metals used to make jewellery, it is the most tarnish-proof option. Tarnishing is a more common issue with silver, and much more common amongst non-solid metals such as plated, filled or vermeil. With normal daily wear, it is very rare for solid gold jewellery to tarnish, regardless of carat.
In the event that this does occur, you will find that it is easily shined up again - just soak in a solution of warm water with a cleaning agent such as mild washing up liquid or baby shampoo, then gently scrub with a soft-bristled brush and dry with a soft cloth. You can also try soaking in white vinegar for a short period of time!
Does solid gold rust?
Rust is the commonly used term for the reddish, flaky appearance that can appear on metal as a result of a chemical reaction between iron, oxygen and water.
As an unreactive metal, pure solid gold does not rust. For solid gold that has been alloyed with any iron, it is theoretically possible for this reaction to occur, although this is extremely unusual in jewellery.
In jewellery items, rust would appear as small red spots and would only be possible in situations where iron makes up a high percentage of the metal mix. Iron can be used in these percentages for solid gold jewellery, but it is not common.
Does solid gold wear off?
No, solid gold will not wear off over time. In a piece made entirely from solid gold, the metal is consistent throughout. This is in contrast to plated jewellery, which sees a thin layer applied to a base metal which can wear down over time, or gold filled jewellery, which is a layer of gold bonded to a base metal. The layer is thicker in gold filled than gold plated jewellery, but it can still wear off over time, especially in high-friction spots.
If you are looking for a jewellery piece where your chosen metal colour cannot possibly wear off, solid metals are your best choice.
This makes it perfect for items you might be wearing on a daily basis such as a wedding or engagement ring, or simply an integral piece in your jewellery box like an everyday bracelet.
It also makes it ideal for a gifted item, as your gift recipient won't find that it looks tired and worn a year later, which can sometimes be the case for plated items
Solid gold is both durable and non-reactive, so if you're looking for something to stand the test of time, you'd be hard pushed to find a better choice. It wears very well, much better than many other metals:
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It's resistant to discolouration, corrosion and tarnishing
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It keeps its integrity and strength
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There is no plating to wear away and no base metal to be 'revealed' when this happens
Investing in solid gold means investing in quality that lasts. While plated jewellery may lose its finish over time, solid gold stays just as lovely as the day you bought it. With minimal care, your favourite pieces will continue to shine, becoming meaningful heirlooms rather than disposable accessories.
You can find out more about jewellery care on our website, or browse our ethical solid gold jewellery, handmade in our London studio, today.