Jewellery has been made using gemstones mined from the earth for centuries, but shoppers are becoming more and more conscious of the ethical and environmental impact of their consumer habits.

If you have been considering the ethics of your jewellery box, then you may have come across the term lab grown gemstones in your research. These are stones that have been grown in a laboratory, rather than ones that have to be mined from the ground.

But how does this happen, what's the difference between those grown in a lab and those created underground, and are they the answer to what you are looking for?

We're here to answer all of your questions about lab grown gemstones so that you can be informed when browsing for your next jewellery piece.

Wild Fawn uses lab grown diamonds and ethically mined sapphires and other gemstones. Being sure that our stones are conflict-free and fully traceable is the only way we will ever include them in our pieces.

What are lab grown gemstones?

Lab grown gemstones are exactly as the name suggests: gemstones that have been created in a laboratory. You might have come across them by another name, such as human made gemstones, above ground gemstones, or even artificial or synthetic gemstones - although at Wild Fawn we think this can be a bit misleading, since lab created gemstones share the same chemical and physical properties as natural gems and are therefore just as 'real'.

All above ground gemstones share the same mineral makeup as natural ones. Optically, they are identical, and can be cut and set in beautiful jewellery pieces in the exact same way. No one would know that your new necklace, earrings or engagement ring contains lab grown diamonds or gemstones, unless you told them.

Lab grown diamonds in particular are becoming increasingly popular for both the ethically-minded and those who want to get the most for their money when it comes to choosing engagement rings and other jewellery. We're proud to offer a range of beautiful lab grown diamond jewellery pieces and engagement rings.

Are lab grown gemstones real?

Just as lab grown diamonds are real diamonds, lab grown gemstones of other types are real too.

Whilst there are several different methods used to create sapphires, rubies, emeralds, garnets and other precious gemstones in a laboratory, each of them maintains the same chemical properties and mineral makeup as natural gemstones.

How lab grown gemstones are made

It might seem like lab grown gemstones are a relatively new trend, but in actual fact some of the first processes used to create them were developed in the early 1900s.

French chemist A.V.L. Verneuil came up with the Verneuil flame fusion method, which became the first commercially successful way of creating precious stones in a lab. This method involves dropping powdered chemicals onto a rotating platform through a high temperature flame. Since it is cost-effective and takes just a couple of hours to create each coloured gemstone, it remains a popular technique today to create lab grown rubies and sapphires.

Around the same time, Carroll Chatham developed the Flux fusion method, which mimics the internal structure of mined gemstones, meaning they share the same brilliance and sparkles as their natural counterparts. The Chatham company produces lab-created rubies, emeralds, and blue and yellow sapphires, and their gemstones are still considered to be amongst the finest and most sought-after lab-grown stones. Unsurprisingly, these stones can come with a higher price tag, as they can take between six months and a year to grow and cut.

Lab created emeralds are made using the hydrothermal growth method. This method mimics the way many minerals are created in nature through the crystallisation of hydrous (or water) solutions which are exposed to high temperatures and pressure. In the laboratory, raw materials are enclosed in a metal container that is partially filled with water. The raw materials are placed under high heat and pressure, which then causes a reaction that in turn creates crystals. It can take between 6 and 12 months to create emeralds this way.

Using these methods, amongst others, scientists have developed ways of creating lab-grown gemstones including rubies, emeralds, yellow and blue sapphires, diamonds, alexandrite, moissanite and opal.

So far, there are no lab-created counterparts for jade, amber or pearls.

Lab grown vs mined gemstones

The main difference between lab grown and mined gemstones is the way that they have been created.

Mined stones take thousands to millions of years to form beneath the earth's surface, whereas lab created stones can take as little as a few hours, depending on the stone and the method used to make it.

Chatham stones mimic the internal structure of natural gemstones, meaning their brilliance and light reflecting properties are the same. These are the closest alternative to mined stones, but they do come with a higher price tag than other lab-grown gems.

Natural and lab grown gemstones share the exact same mineral makeup, so there is no difference in the hardness or durability of the stones. In fact, since it's possible to have more control over the creation of the stones, lab grown gemstones have fewer impurities and colour variations than natural gems.

If you're wondering whether or not to choose lab created diamonds or gems for your jewellery, rest assured that only a highly trained jeweller would be able to tell the difference between natural and lab created gemstones, and even then they would need the help of special equipment.

Are lab grown gemstones ethical?

Lab grown gemstones are an ethical choice when it comes to selecting a stone for your next piece of jewellery, given that their origin and the means used to obtain them are clear, compared to some mined gemstones.

When we first began using gemstones in our jewellery at Wild Fawn, we opted for lab grown to ensure we could continue to uphold our ethical standards, as at the time fully traceable mined gemstones were not feasible in terms of cost. However, as the brand has grown, and more ethically sourced, fully traceable mined stones have become available, we have been able to begin using these - especially in our engagement rings, where we love to use sapphires.

We still use only lab grown diamonds, as it is very difficult to be sure that a mined diamond is conflict-free and ethically sourced. However for other precious stones like sapphires or emeralds, we have been able to partner with trusted suppliers who only work with a select few small, artisanal mines.

In terms of their effect on the environment, no gemstone is perfect, and there is no such thing as a stone with zero environmental impact.

The best way to make your decision on which type of stone to go for is to do some research and speak to the shop or vendor you're buying from to make sure they know where their precious gemstones are sourced from, to be certain you're buying ethically sourced quality gems, whether they are lab grown or traceable mined stones.

Choosing lab grown gemstone jewellery

As lab grown diamonds and gemstones become more widely available, some say that the value of lab gems won't be retained in the same way that it might for natural stones. When making your decision on which kind of stone to go for, bear in mind what you might want the future of your jewellery to be. A beloved, precious piece of jewellery handed down through the generations will have just as much sentimental value whether they were grown in a lab or responsibly-sourced.

Whatever you decide, make sure you're investing in quality gemstones, and that you know the origin of your natural or above ground stone.

Wild Fawn offers a range of beautiful, ethical jewellery made using lab grown diamonds and ethically sourced sapphires, emeralds and other stones.